It's the best way in the world to wind up a Greek or a a Turk - to suggest that their prized national dish X is just a version of the other culture's Y. But it holds true for so many dishes and ingredients. They are both wonderful, interelated cuisines. For me the Eastern end of the Med is where it really feels like the crucible of our European civilisation, where the trading routes to Asia really exert their influence over tastes, smells and sounds.

It would be wonderful to think that one day the mistrust, and open hatred and hostilit,y between Turkey and Greece might end, or at least subside. Little chance under the current political leadership in either land to try to steer their peoples towards such a rapprochement, I fear.