Our recently discovered and new favourite restaurant here is a converted house in one of the property devlopments on the edge of town. I don't know how they got planning permission, but I'm glad they did. It's standard fare for round here, i.e. steak -they specialise in properly aged beef which is not my thing but my family say it's good stuff- and Valencian rice dishes. Beautifully presented but unpretentious desserts. All for the same price that you'd pay for the same options served with lesser ingredients in a less welcoming atmosphere anywhere else.

It's a small, family-run place with a small staff, nothing envelope-pushing or avant-garde, old-school linen table cloths, no fussiness, but studied competence.

One of their waiting staff has the kind of piercings and tattoos on her neck and face that used to be called job-killers.

She is a consummate professional, has all the personal skills that truly make a dining experience, and no one bats an eyelid at her tattoos.

Like you say, Charlie, the times they are a-changin'. I hope (and believe) that the younger generations have the confidence to shape them in their image. Or rather their multiple images.

The first rule of the future is: there are no rules.